Flooring - Hardwood - Installation


Installing hardwood over Concrete or Wood joist construction

by Ark-floors

Installing hardwood over wood joist construction

So, you’ve decided. After carefully considering the wide world of floor coverings, and shopping smart, you’ve chosen wood as the flooring solution for the way you live. Whew, you’re home free, right?

Wrong
 Don’t forget the next critical step: Preparing for installation. It will make the whole process easier, faster and hopefully eliminate that dreaded phrase “If only I’d thought of…” Being prepare will be a lot less stressful on you -- and your home. So check out the following, be prepared and anticipate, then look forward with confidence to the day your new Hardwood flooring arrives.

Our first advice is: Eliminate Hardwood DIY.
While easier to install than other types of flooring, it is nonetheless still difficult work, labor intensive and extremely exacting.
We strongly recommend you call upon a reliable, seasoned, dedicated professional to install your Hardwood floor. That way you can be assured of a beautiful, efficient and correct installation.

Which is precisely what our goal at JMI Flooring is for you.
However, while installing Hardwood flooring is a skill that is developed through training and experience, your understanding of the basics of installation will increase your knowledge of the process and enhance your confidence in the professionals working in your home. So please allow us to cover some of the basics with you.

(Method #1)   Side seams are either Stapled down or nailed down using a “pneumatic nailer” installation where the planks tightly interlock together. Both installations are considered nailed down floors. (See JMI Flooring for professional installation)
 Hardwood floors can also be installed as a “floating floor” installation; which means, the planks simply lay on top of the floor without being adhered to the sub floor and are only adhered to each other on the edges.

(Method #2) Side seams are either glued together or joined using a “glueless” installation where the planks tightly interlock together. Both installations are considered floating floors.
Note: All hardwood flooring and most laminate must acclimate to the surroundings for 24 to 48 hours before installation.

First, check the moisture level.
The first step an installer takes when installing a hardwood floor is to check the moisture level in the "Sub floor and your hardwood flooring" ( See JMI Flooring for more information on moisture levels prior to installation)

Next, the imperfection inspection.
The next step an installer takes when installing a Hardwood floor is to closely inspect your sub floor for any imperfections. Lots of crawling around on hands and knees here.
While no floor is perfectly level, the sub floor should be checked for any noticeable gaps or ridges that could cause problems. Your floor is then cleaned. The installers will also make sure that the Hardwood plank or strip have had sufficient time to acclimate to their new surroundings. Probably by delivering them days ahead of installation.

Next, understanding underlayment.

The installers now put down an underlayment directly over your sub floor. This underlayment allows the floor to expand and contract with changes in temperature and also acts as a sound and moisture barrier. Both good ideas.
In some installations, there are two underlayment layers. Why, you may ask? The first layer is installed to specifically act as a moisture barrier while the second layer provides a sound barrier and enhances your flooring’s performance.
The underlayment is typically rolled out and taped together at the seams. Installers will cut the pieces of underlayment where needed with a precision utility knife to make a perfect fit.

Now the planks can be laid.
Installers will typically begin in the left corner of the area and leave a minimum ¼" space between the flooring and the perimeter walls. This is done because the Hardwood requires space around the edges of the room to expand or contract. Without that “breathing room” your floor will express its discontent. If the floor is touching or too close to a wall, it can buckle in the middle. Along the wall, the installers use spacers as they work, to ensure the accuracy of this perimeter space. They use one spacer for each square foot. Once your floor is fully installed they remove the spacers and cover the perimeter gap with quarter round trim or a wall base. As the installers lay the planks in the desired pattern, they will carefully measure and precisely cut the planks to fit.

Clueless about glueless? Read on shopper.
As mentioned earlier, many Hardwoods today don’t require glue for the installation. These glueless products have significantly impacted the Hardwood flooring industry and there are several reasons why the glueless Hardwoods are so popular. Most importantly, they are easy to install. The installer simply puts down an underlayment and the planks of Hardwood interlock to each other one at a time. If something goes wrong during installation, your floor can be dismantled plank by plank and re-built. If one of the panels gets damaged after installation, your entire floor can be removed, the damaged plank replaced, and the floor can be put back together again plank by plank. Presto, like magic the damage disappears!

Some installers stick with glue.
For floors that require glue on the sides of the planks, the installers begin by gluing the first two planks in the first row together. Again, they start in the left-hand corner and glue the first row together at the ends. As they glue each plank or tile they apply clamps or use straps to hold the pieces together. Although planks usually fit together easily, installers will sometimes use a tapping block while fitting the boards together. For installations that use glue, once the floor is completed and the glue is dry, installers then remove the spacers.

The final touch.
To finish your floor, the installers add molding to cover the perimeter gap and install any additional transition trim pieces needed in doorways or where the Hardwood meets a different type of flooring.
Custom finished moldings and trim will give your Hardwood flooring a beautiful, finished look. They are all coordinated to match or accentuate the design of your floor. It’s all part of a professional installation.

For your information, here are some finishing terms and definitions.
  • Reducer Strip is used to create a smooth transition between two floors of different heights, as well as protect the planks exposed edge from damage caused by foot traffic.
  • Overlapping Stair Nosing is similar to a flush stair nosing except the nosing overlaps the exposed edge of your floor. The overlapping stair nosing is secured to the sub floor and not to the Hardwood floor so the floor is free to move. Recall the “floating floor” idea we mentioned earlier in this section.
  • T-Molding are used to bridge two areas of flooring that are the exact same height. The T-Molding overlaps the exposed edges of the floor and is secured only to the sub floor, never to the flooring itself. Generally this trim is used as the transition piece between rooms, or as the expansion piece for areas that exceed 30 feet in length.
  • Universal Edge is also called a Square Nosing and is used where the Hardwood flooring butts up to carpeting, or various vertical surfaces where the edge will be exposed, such as along a fireplace.
  • Quarter Round gives the floor a finished look and protects the edges of your Hardwood flooring. The result is a beautiful, professionally installed Hardwood floor. Your floor.

  • What to do before the day of installation
  • Begin prepping with your big three: furniture, appliances and toilets.
  • Remove all your furniture and other objects and materials from the areas where the installation will take place.
  • Some installers will move your furniture, but there may be an additional charge for doing so. Prior to moving, you’ll also need to empty the contents of china cabinets, closets, refrigerators and the like. And yes, it’s a hassle.
  • You should check with your retailer regarding the disconnection and removal of appliances. Some installers may disconnect and move your electrical appliances and furniture for an additional charge.
  • But prior arrangements should be made with your salesperson. For your safety, and that of your family, we recommend that the gas company or appliance company disconnect and reconnect all gas appliances.
  • Ask your retailer about the possibility and cost of disconnecting and reconnecting such items as ice makers, stereo equipment and computers; and the removal of heavy items like pianos.
  • Also, consult with your retailer to determine if there is a charge for the removal and replacement of toilets in bathrooms if that is necessary.
  • Be aware that the area of installation must be climate controlled (heated or air conditioned). Indoor humidity should be maintained between 45-65%

    Out with the old – remove your present floor covering.
    Please consider how your old floor covering will be taken up and disposed of. This can be a time consuming task. We recommend that you check with your retailer about the cost and the method of disposal. So there are no surprises for you. If you prefer to remove your present floor covering, do it at least one day prior to arrival of your Hardwood product to allow for cleanup and floor preparation. If removing old carpet, please remove all materials, the tackles's and the pad, including staples.

    Don’t be left out on a limb about your trim.
    You should know that, in many cases, moldings and baseboards need to be removed for Hardwood installation. Your installer may do this but at an additional charge and they will probably not be responsible for damage or breakage due to dry or brittle wood. Painted baseboards, woodwork and paint may need retouching after the installation is complete. If necessary, this is your responsibility.

    There’s no substitute for sub flooring.
    Your existing sub floor may need to be prepared to receive the Hardwood flooring, or a new sub floor may be required. We suggest you discuss this with your retailer and, if sub floor work is necessary, that it be done by qualified professionals. It is important that the sub floor be as clean and level as possible. That helps insure your new Hardwood flooring will be as beautiful and well supported as possible.
    Do this to insure an open door policy.
    When Hardwood flooring is installed, there’s always the possibility that the doors, especially closet doors, basement and bedroom doors, may not clear the new Hardwood and swing free.
    Some installers will remove doors in order to install the Hardwood and re-hang them if possible. They probably won’t shave or cut down doors to insure clearance. You should check with your retailer/installer as to their policy and the cost. You may need to arrange for a qualified carpenter to provide this service after the installation of your new Hardwood floor.

    Check-up on the clean-up.
    Installing new Hardwood flooring will produce waste. Usually these materials are collected by your installer and disposed of for a fee. Check with your retailer before the day of installation so you’re clear about the clean up, if there are added costs to do so, and ask about the plan for Hardwood remnants.

    What to do during installation
    Install yourself at home on installation day. Be prepared to be at home the day of installation and be available in case the installation crew has questions. Your presence will insure that the correct Hardwood flooring is installed in the right areas. Because it is difficult to estimate the length and circumstances of each job, some installers may not be able to give you an exact time of arrival. We suggest you be flexible and keep in touch with your retailer/installer.

    Your safety, first and last.
    Your installers will use a variety of tools and techniques that can make the work area hazardous. Please make sure that your children and pets are kept out of the work area on installation day.

    The walk-thru is your final step.
    We recommend that, prior to the completion of the installation, you walk thru the job with the chief installer. This will give you the opportunity to ask questions and be clear on any final details. Your retailer and the installation crew want you to be completely satisfied with your new Hardwood flooring.

    What to do after installation
    Give yourself breathing room. If you are sensitive to dust and odors, good ventilation should be established for 48 to 72 hours after installation.

    Prepare today for tomorrow.
    When it comes to your Hardwood flooring installation, we want you to be as well prepared as possible. It will make installation day easier on you and your home and provide you with an enjoyable floor covering experience for years to come.

    Looking for the latest and most stylish exotic wood floors? by Ark-Floors Look no further. Here you will find Tigerwood, Brazilian Cherry, African Mahogany, Brazilian Teak, Ipe, Merbau and more, a total of fourteen exotic species in all in a wide range of colors and often available in your choice of ether engineered or solid construction.
    Request a Free Estimate or Call: 815-344-3516


    Mannington Hardwood Floors

    Mannington
    Mannington offers a broad selection of wood floors in an exciting range of wood species, gloss levels, constructions, and popular finishes. In choosing the style of flooring you prefer, consider these options:

    UltraWear® Plus Finish and Scratch Resist
    Our 7-step UltraWear® Plus polyurethane/aluminum oxide finish provides unsurpassed protection against normal wear. Each UltraWear® Plus step is ultraviolet cured, making it far more durable than any finish that could be applied on-site. Our ScratchResist™ finish helps your wood floor look new longer by resisting everyday household scratches.

    5-Ply Cross Grain Construction
    There's strength in numbers. Every Mannington hardwood floor is constructed with five plies for optimum strength and durability. Each ply is laid cross-grain to those above and beneath it. With each ply reinforcing the next, and with the strongest resins bonding all layers together, the combined result is far stronger than a single solid piece of wood - warranted not to warp or buckle.

    Gloss Level
    Our four gloss levels should be matched to the traffic you anticipate for your floor. A high gloss finish is appropriate for low-traffic rooms such as dining rooms, living rooms, and bedrooms. A semi-gloss finish is ideal for moderate-to-high traffic areas such as family rooms. And satin and low luster finishes are suitable for high-traffic areas including kitchens and dens.

    Please note: hardwood flooring comes in many different species, finishes and construction types.For more information Call: 815-344-3516


    Provided by JMI Flooring, Inc.





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